After Epoxying the trimmed and 'routed' pieces together, I was left with 2cm gaps on either side of the helmet, between the back and front pieces, additionally to these I was also left with smaller holes & gaps on the rear of the helmet where the poorly formed top met the rear plate.

I therefore decided to use Davis P40 (Fibreglass) -

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_167469_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

On top of aluminium mesh to bridge the gaps -

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_189682_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

Later filled with P38 -

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_189482_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

Then sanded smooth to await the painting.

As you can see above, this has indeed bridged the gaps and made the helmet look more like the finished article, however as the rear and the front plates are so badly misaligned, there is something of a step between them, which I have tried to merge with a curved gradient of filler (Sorry if I dont use all of the technically correct terms here), which looks good to be :D

NOTE: the crappy ears that came with this ket stick out about 1 cm around the oxygen tubes at the bottom of the helmet so I am contemplating buying a spare ABS set of these.... but these are quite expensive - £35 !! :o (Especially on a helmet I've already been stung on)

All thats left to do now is attach the vocoder and create the chin part, which is missing (Appears to be a trait of the FX helmets)

I'll post what I mean here later.